I feel you on getting these things settled. My Frankender is pretty reliable and making sure the foundational stuff is good is key.

Here’s a comment I made here about a year back breaking down how to square, align and level these things

https://lemmy.world/comment/7904011

The context is Klipper which I’m running but the physical stuff applies across the board

May be a good time to see if there bits of filament in the extruder gears and if they’re ok. And, if they are, to clean the nozzle either by using filament or a cold pull.

And there’s the issue with embedded security stuff.

Because they’re really good out of the box printers and prior to this for somebody that wanted something that “just works” it would be Prusa or Bambu I’d recommend.

I love tinkering and tweaking and I’m building a Voron but it’s not hard to understand how overwhelming choices can be and it’s understandable that people would choose to lock into an ecosystem specifically because it lets them just print.

I would never buy a Bambu and wouldn’t recommend it for anybody building a company with essential components having them in the pipeline but then again most people aren’t that aware and their research, understandably, led them to buying one.

I agree with OP, this is an opportunity to be empathic and to help them. And they’re learning the hard way a lesson they’ll take forward. I’d prefer that lesson to be “more careful” and not “these people are snobs”

If there’s no periods of rest… yes.

There’s also the retraction/wipe of filament. So if you can’t do it inside the print then the tower is used to give that surface to wipe off against.

Worst case then would be boogers/wisps

The blood vessels can be permanently damaged from an erection that long so it tracks.

This is why the Viagra commercials have that “if you have an erection lasting longer than 4 hours” bit. It is a serious issue that if not addressed can lead to permanent damage that can make it impossible to have an erection.

of Sauron 
[elrond@rivendell ~]

runuser -l guest.frodo -c '/home/guest.frodo/ring.sh'

cat eyes
cat: no such file or directory

This is inappropriate on so many levels:

• If there are eyes and you touch them it’s wrong.
• If a person doesn’t have eyes touching where they are isn’t going to be a winning strategy either
• If you touch a file in Linux called eyes and create it people will be very confused
• If there’s already an existing file called eyes that’s disturbing. What? Why?

If it’s only overhangs then you may want to look at increasing the time between layers or increasing the part fan speed on overhangs.

This way there’s time for the layer before to solidify enough before adding more heat and melted plastic above it.

May not be it but it does have a kind of “overheated” look to it.

No need to feel like an idiot, I’ve done it too. Even looked up how to do some obscure thing only to find a link I’ve read before and comes out I have a bookmark for it from a year or so ago.

As for switching settings across objects I agree. I use these things when dialing in one setting across a range such as flow rate. Never for an entire print, though, since a failed print component is going to be dragged across others, etc.

Or the change in temp, flow, retraction, etc may cause strings, or blobs, etc. to affect the others when it’s printing the layers. Unless you’re doing one object at a time which presumes they’re small enough, etc. And even then it failing could mean what remains of the entire object may be dragged across hitting others. It’s just not worth the hassle.

It does show them thinking about processes which is a good mindset to have though.

Experience is a good teacher in this hobby.

Not per item “Profiles” but a lot of slicers let you do overrides.

For example you can override with per object settings in OrcaSlicer (and I presume Bambu). In Cura you can add settings that even apply to a box region (such as increasing infill in a certain weak part of a print or using adaptive layer height just as the top of some Conical shape)

Start with PLA since PETG can be finicky with moisture.

Garages are nice but try to keep drafts to a minimum. PLA is more forgiving there too.

Have fun tinkering and figuring it out. There’s just some skills you’ll acquire as you go. Slicer experience giving you an understanding of orientation for strength and/or to minimize the need for supports.

PLA is also cheap enough to just figure it out. You’ll have bad prints, regardless but you’ll also make some cool stuff too.

Bill Nye, Freedom Medal Guy!

PETG has to be dry. I keep mine drying in my filament dryer when I’m printing it and then take it out and keep it sealed with dessicant when I’m not.

Stuff loved to absorb moisture like crazy and is super finicky when it has any moisture at all.

Unfortunately due to other matters I don’t have the bandwidth today.

Let’s schedule a follow-up to discuss for a later date so I can give this the focus it warrants.

*Sign manOrWoman = null;

It wasn’t this part that tripped you up was it?

https://youtu.be/kfJqMekD0VM

That’s unfortunate because good fences make good neighbors

Fourth rule… painters tape as bed surface will save your PEI sheets and holds PETG really well.

Or G10/Garolite