In case anyone here doesn’t follow it, Ivan’s YouTube channel is awesome, he has been working on a crazy marble clock: https://youtu.be/K3FMVmAte3g

ProperPrinting is also great, he has some cool videos on custom extruders and printers he designed and a wild extruding resin printer with UV lasers.

Oh it is certainly not just you, I am sometimes confused reading them even for commands I have used for years and I know what flag I am looking for but don’t remember the exact syntax or something hah! I am glad they are there but they are definitely not a complete guide to any command, especially built-ins.

Interestingly, this is something AI has been very useful for to me, less searching because I can describe the outcome I want and it figures out what I am talking about generally.

Okay so the disks aren’t also on UPS? That might actually be even worse than the whole thing getting turned off, ZFS is definitely not meant to be run on removable disks like that.

Okay so when you say “unplug the power” do you mean shut it down first or just pull the plug? The latter is a great way to corrupt your storage pools as ZFS uses memory for read and write cache etc by default. You definitely need to do a graceful shutdown especially if there is data that was recently written to disk, that’s why a UPS is so recommended. That said you can usually import an existing pool when that happens, I think there is a UI menu for it now.

Have you tried adding 239.255.255.250/32 to your outbound subnets variable? This is the multicast address for SSDP which mDNS ultimately relies on if I remember right, I recall having to do this for Plex in the past.

Just to make sure, all of your links need to be in quotes if they are not. The : in a url can make some yaml parsers think that it is another block, there are other URL safe characters in general that are special characters in yaml so it’s a good idea to put them in quotes.

In addition to everyone’s suggestions, have you tried rotating the part so it is at a 45 on the bed? This will keep the printer from accelerating as much in the Y direction since it is not a straight motion, I used to have to do that for tall prints on my Mk3 sometimes.

Also, if I were printing that part I would flip it over unless there is some reason you can’t. You might also get more rigidity using normal supports for the large surface facing the bed, might print faster too, tree supports for large areas take a while for me usually.

This is a cool idea! This sounds a lot like what DANTE and AES67 or AVB are used for in pro audio (mixing console sends multichannel and outputs can subscribe to one or more channels), maybe they have some ideas on timing sync which I think would be the hardest part as others have said, it is crazy how small of a jitter your brain can hear.

I remember your first post a year or so ago and dang you have been busy, it looks really great. I will definitely be installing this at home to organize product manuals and such.

Have you ever dried this filament? Silica beads won’t dry out filament, they will just keep the air in the box dry. I have definitely had to dry filament from the factory, especially PETG.

I don’t have anything to add but I am glad someone posts this every week, I always find something new, so please keep it up :D

I know you solved it but for anyone that finds this later this feature/behavior is typically called “NAT Hairpin” in case you are looking for a setting to enable or disable, hope this helps!

Just to add what others have said, the temp you dry at is as important if not more important than time and different for each type of plastic. If you don’t have it hot enough (typically near the glass transition temperature of the plastic) then the moisture is not able to escape the plastic.

Cool project as well, I have wanted to do the same!

Ah yeah that is good, just making sure because it has caused me a lot of strange issues hah.

One thing that prob doesn’t matter but I usually dry PETG at 55 or 60, not sure how much of a difference that will make, 51 might be warm enough though. From what I have learned, it has to be warm enough that the moisture can escape the plastic (usually just below the glass transition temp) so you might try turning it up a bit if nothing else works because the moisture might not be escaping.

A lot of good avi e from others but definitely don’t discount drying it out, especially if you live somewhere that the air RH is over 20% as it will definitely suck it out of the air and act all kinds of odd in my experience.

https://youtu.be/jVhlJNJopOQ

Lots of good recommendations here, my usual recommendation is that if you want 3d printing for a hobby to get a Bambu or similar because they just function out of the box for basically all materials. If you want 3d printing to be the hobby then a Prusa or Voron as others have said, way more tinkering to be had. Both are lots of fun though!

I just wanted to add this video to your comment because e-ink is so cool and this guy has a bunch of macro shots of the displays that are awesome and you can see the particles in the screen changing colors.

https://youtu.be/1qIHCUWAgh4

So cool!

I found this diagram on SO at one point but I can’t find the post and it is the best explanation I have found for how all of the files work for bash and zsh, each color is an individual path of execution (eg, follow the red line).

Bottom line though, it only really matters if you are overriding something that is already defined, for example I tell my users to use zshrc and I provide defaults and common things in zprofile because zshrc is executed last when they login.

This guy’s channel is so awesome, glad to see it posted here. He has all kinds of cool tools that he built in his lab like a scanning electron microscope. His videos on atomic force microscopes and laser lithography are really fascinating as well, he is really great at explaining the concepts too, definitely recommend!